"I'm totally up for innovation, but when Nordic tendencies start heading towards the hair-shirted, I start jonesing for a nice rarebit and glass of port," she says. "But otherwise, yes, Timberyard can own "game-changing". Excitement often comes with an edge, and is all the more exciting for it."
The Evening Standard's Fay Maschler aims to recreate the atmosphere of Saint-Jean-de-Luz by heading to St Katherine Docks in London, for a meal at Bravas Tapas. She awards the restaurant four stars.
"Here comes chef Victor Garvey. 'You are lucky,' he says, "we have just taken the torta de Santiago from the oven." It is warm, yielding, fudgily perfect, made all the more so, if such a thing is possible, by acerbic morello cherry ice cream, poached fruit and a scattering of almonds. Who needs the Pyrénées-Atlantiques now?"
Jay Rayner of the Observer throws over the tasting menu-based restaurant he had planned to visit in favour of the "intensely likeable" Blanchette in London's Soho, with its unfussy, old-school approach.
The Independent's Lisa Markwell takes colleague and Georgia expert Susie Mesure with her to pass judgement on the authenticity of Marani, a new Georgian restaurant in London.
"The menu is mind-bogglingly long. Come winter, though, I might go back mob-handed (this place is made for big groups) and order again the half I loved - all real rib-stickers, for which I'd say "didi madloba" and order some more kindzmarauli (traditional sweet red wine, mmm)," says Markwell.
Matthew Norman visits Shanghai Shanghai in Nottingham, where the menu is split between the cuisines of Canton and Szechuan. It caters mainly for Nottingham University's growing Chinese student population, according to the critic
"I would, given the chance, have eaten myself to death," he says in the Telegraph. "How the standard of the cooking could be raised at Shanghai Shanghai (such spice they named it twice!) I cannot imagine."
Zoe Williams experiences the "genius" of Nuno Mendes at London's Chiltern Firehouse but doesn't enjoy the "obstacle course of disregard and weird hierarchies".
"The 'status' tables are banquettes, roomy and attention-seeking. The rest of them are packed in like a dining-car on a train. It's all very New York, by which I mean, a management that will do anything to create the impression that the punters should be grateful," she says in the Telegraph. "By the time we finally sat down at one of the dining-car tables (C with a great view of Sol Campbell), I was fuming. After one crab doughnut (£5), a tiny choux puffball of the sweetest white meat, I'd melted."
Time Out gives chef Ollie Dabbous' latest venture Barnyard a full five stars, praising the "casual, family-friendly, and affordable" food.