What the Critics Say
The Observer
Newman Street Tavern
That crabmeat arrives mined with pebbles of rosy roe on a thick-cut piece of warm buttered toast. It is all the richest, most intense bits of the crab, with a squirt of lemon to make it decent. Another piece of toast is smeared with laverbread, that glorious Welsh seaweed gunge which has all of the iodine and umami kick of its Japanese relatives. On top are two slices of crisp-cooked, dry-cured bacon. And then, to cool everything down, a still-warm boiled gull's egg, with a yolk soft enough to be spread.
An onion tart is where the kitchen's serious chops become obvious. If I tried to make pastry as stupidly thin and delicate as this, my kitchen would be littered with debris. I would be found sobbing in a corner, covered in pastry. This is a magnificent piece of work, the shell filled with a soft-sweet stew of tangled onions.
Price: £100 for meal for two including drinks and service

Extracts: Patisserie at Home, by Will Torrent

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Will Torrent

Award-winning pastry chef, Waitrose consultant and 2010 Acorn Scholarship winner Will Torrent published his first cookery book last month, Pâtisserie at Home. Here we share some extracts from his book, published by Ryland Peters & Small, with photography by Jonathan Gregson





GÂTEAU SAINT-HONORÉ

This is one of the most famous of all French pâtisseries, and it is definitely made to impress. The caramel-tipped pistachios are optional, but they add a touch of style. It is traditionally made as a large gâteau for the French patron saint of bakers and pastry chefs, Saint Honoré, but I make little individual ones as well.

What's in season: June and July

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What's in season header

James Wellock of fresh produce supplier Wellocks highlights which ingredients will be in their prime in July, while British Larder chef Madalene Bonvini-Hamel shares some seasonal recipes

A seriously exciting month lies ahead, with UK produce at the forefront and a couple of real stunners from Europe. In July, we will be in soft fruit heaven when the local berries come into season - their freshness and flavour is outstanding.

On a sunny day there is nothing better than  going to see a grower and walking through their fields - the smell of the fruit hits you as it floats on the air, and to be able to just pick and eat the berries is a taste sensation.

Menuwatch: The Dining Room at TerraVina

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Dining Room at TerraVina
George Blogg tells Amanda Afiya why an abundance of quality, local produce made his move to TerraVina in the New Forest such an easy decision to make.

There are so many qualities about Hotel TerraVina that it's nigh-on impossible to pin down exactly what it was that drew 2011 Acorn Award winner George Blogg to the 11-bedroom property for his first head chef's position.

But the protégé of two of Britain's finest chefs - Phil Howard and David Everitt-Matthias - is not lost for words when pointing out what enticed him to the New Forest hotel. "The idyllic location, the fact that it is run by two genuinely lovely people, and its position - halfway between Dorset, where I was born, and London, where I spent some of my working life - are just some of the attractions," he explains.

Chef Masterclass: Three Chimneys shellfish risotto

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Three Chimneys Masterclass: shellfish risotto

At the Three Chimneys on the Isle of Skye, executive chef Michael Smith uses mussel stock for sauces, batters and vegetables as well as his shellfish risotto. Michael Raffael reports

It's one of those culinary "no-nos" at the back of a chef's mind. He knows he's not supposed to mix both cheese and fish in a risotto. That's why a shellfish risotto is less rich. What's more, it isn't possible to disguise an otherwise bland flavour with Parmesan or a poor texture with knobs of butter or cream.

Using mussels rather than fish for the stock base helps to achieve a pronounced umami taste. They, along with scallops and clams, contain a significant amount of naturally occurring glutamate (three times as much as bonito flakes and twice as much as prawns).

Art of the Restaurateur - Caterer and Hotelkeeper feature
What makes a successful restaurateur? Consultant and author of The Art of the Restaurateur Nicholas Lander tells Janie Manzoori-Stamford about the key characteristics he thinks are most important

A good sense of humour
So much can go wrong that this is the bedrock on which restaurants are built. Successful restaurateurs usually have a good sense of humour.
What the Critics SayRESTAURANTS
 
The Times 
Allium Brasserie
The glazed pork ribs with garlic, chili and sesame were terrifying, for the three ribs came still stuck together, like a small rack. How were dainty Bath ladies to nibble on these with a glass of sherry? I had to carve it down to its constituent parts with an eating knife and then portion out the flayed bones, running with hot sticky juices...A quail glazed in chilli caramel was another piece of meat blasted with fire and sugar, as I suppose its name suggested. Not bad, just mouth- assaulting and unsubtle. Chinese cabbage, hearts of palm, lychee, peanuts and coriander also jostled for attention and the poor wee bird was rather forgotten at the centre. Nic's bream was a nice fillet of wild fish, thoroughly baffled by the violet artichokes, chopped octopus tentacles and salsa verde that flocked after it like Mumbai orphans round a tourist. And the pat of lemon curd beneath it was horrifying. Lemon curd has no place outside a meringue pie. To lob it on a plate of bream and octopus was just so random - like putting Marmite in a syllabub, or ketchup in milk.
Rating: 5.5 (cooking 5, room 5, sustainability 6.5)
Price: £45/head sans grog 

Chef Masterclass: Ricotta by Tom Aikens

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House-made ricotta , green olive juice, honey jelly and pine kernels - photo by Lisa Barber

Ricotta isn't just a type of soft cheese - in fact, it isn't really cheese at all, it's a by-product of the cheese-making process. And only a real perfectionist of a chef would consider making his own. No surprise, perhaps, that Tom Aikens does exactly that. Michael Raffael reports

What is ricotta? It's important to start with a definition, because the name is a hold-all that covers a loosely defined family. Strictly speaking it isn't a cheese; it's a by-product of cheese-making. The word itself translates literally as "re-cooked". Milk is heated with a coagulant to separate curds and whey - the cooking stage. The curd is the basis of all cheese; the whey still contains some solids. By reheating it, 
"re-cooking" it, the lost, protein-rich solids are recovered from this liquid phase. Italian ricottas, made from sheep's, goats', cows' or buffaloes' milk come in dozens of shapes and sizes. The key eating quality is freshness.

Salt Yard
Salt Yard: Food & Wine from Spain & Italy
By Sanja Morris, Ben Tish and Simon Mullins
Piquillo Publishing, £30

Ben Tish, executive chef at the Salt Yard Group, is a friend and former colleague from Coast in London, where we both worked, way back in the late 1990s.

It gives me great pleasure to review a book that he has written, along with Sanja Morris and Simon Mullins, the founders of the Salt Yard restaurant in Goodge Street in 2005. 

Inspired by their experiences of eating out in Spain and Italy, Sanja and Simon created a restaurant that reflected the small dishes, charcuterie and cheeses they ate on their travels. In an inspired move, they appointed Ben as head chef the following year and swiftly promoted him to executive chef of the group. The three of them have since gone on to open Dehesa in Soho (2008) and Opera Tavern in Covent Garden (2011).
Junya Yamasaki
Lots of chef collaboration going on in London at the moment and much of it involves Junya Yamasaki.
First up the Koya head chef is teaming up with Barrafina's executive chef Nieves Barragan for four days of side-by-side cooking this month. 

The pair will first share ideas and learn about each other's culinary skills when Barragan spends two days (12 and 13 June) in neighbouring Koya's kitchen, where she will prepare a menu of lunch and dinner specials including cod tempura with Bilbaina sauce, crispy fried baby artichokes with ginger ali-oli and seafood udon.

Returning the favour the following week, Yamasaki will then spend two days (19 and 20 June) working at Barrafina where he will prepare and serve a Japanese inspired list of lunch and dinner specials including udon tortilla and monkfish "agebitashi" with peas and jamon dashi. 

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Recent Comments

  • steve bennett: i think this just confirms what has already been considered read more
  • Jay Rayner: Tiny thing. You're relying a little heavily on the standfirsts read more
  • annonymous: I think one of your chefs that already works at read more
  • Kavey: Oh several excellent chefs there plus the very lovely Edd! read more
  • Phi Francis: Hi Silvana This is your old karate instructor, now that read more
  • Bobby Plumber: Eric is one of the best chefs around and I read more
  • JenWren: We are coming up to the final episode of series read more
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  • Jack: In all three series of The Restaurant Raymond Blanc chose read more
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