What the Critics Say - a round up of the latest restaurant reviews

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Thumbnail image for Thumbnail image for What the Critics SayMarina O'Loughlin has one of the worst meals of her life at Gregg's Table at the Bermondsey Hotel in London, while John Walsh says he feels like he's been being fed mediocre tat with a celebrity name attached to it.

The Metro's food critic is not amused by the dreadful food served at MasterChef presenter Gregg Wallace's new restaurant. "Baby, I ain't cracking a smirk. This really is one of the worst meals I've eaten since I was regularly forced to eat leathery custard by a variety of particularly sadistic nuns," she says.

Meanwhile writing in the Independent, Walsh is equally underwhelmed with the food, saying if Wallace can't offer anything more exciting than this, the locals will continue to eat elsewhere.

The Guardian's John Lanchester says Bistro Union in Clapham, a new neighbourhood restaurant from Adam Byatt, is yet to hits its stride.

"It sounds as if it should be perfect, for a neighbourhood place. It isn't yet, though, and I say that with some surprise, since Trinity is pretty much my favourite restaurant," he says.

The decor at the Empress, London E9, is pleasingly simple and the food, bar a few exceptions, is great at this East End pub, says the Sunday Telegraph's Zoe Williams.

Finally, in London the Evening Standard's Fay Maschler is underwhelmed by the food and high prices at Cotidie, the first UK venture from Italian chef Bruno Barbieri, while Time Out's Guy Dimond says La Bodega Negra, a new Mexican venture from London restaurateur Will Ricker and New York nightclub operator and designer Serge Becker, is Soho's destination diner of the moment.


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