The Independent's food critic says that although Hotel Chef of the Year Catey winner Simmonds' cooking is full of vivid flavours, its lack of colour combined with the monochrome décor and stiff service make the restaurant feel like some "absentee monarch's very pale kingdom".
Writing in the Times Giles Coren says you can eat very well at La Bodega Negra, a new Mexican from London restaurateur Will Ricker and New York nightclub operator and designer Serge Becker in Soho. But unlike its cousin in the Big Apple, the London outpost is not at all cool.
The Independent on Sunday's Lisa Markwell has a hit and miss meal with great steak and attention to provenance but much too big portions at Malmaison Manchester's spruced up brasserie, Smoak, while the Guardian's John Lanchester has lunch at celebrity farmer John Doherty's restaurant on Jimmy's Farm near Ipswich, Suffolk, and finds the food is not half bad.
In London, Andy Lynes says new Cinnamon Soho feels like a poor relation to its predecessors, the Cinnamon Club and Cinnamon Kitchen in his review for the Metro, while the Evening Standard's Fay Maschler says utterly reasonable prices make Briciole the sort of place you want within walking distance of where you live.