Lisa Markwell says if you can save up, you're in for something unusual and exemplary at the Cube, Electrolux's pop-up restaurant on the roof of the Royal Festival Hall.
Two-Michelin-starred chefs Sat Bains, Claude Bosi and Daniel Clifford are joined by Michelin-starred chefs Jonray and Peter Sanchez, and Tom Kitchin at the Cube, which runs until September.
Writing for the Independent on Sunday Markwell says the dinner with Sat Bains was brilliant even though it cost a fortune.
"How you feel about paying north of £200 to sit next to a stranger will define your evening," she asks. "But this is as much fascinating theatre as it is dining out, and my justification (OK, it might be a bit of a stretch) is that on the strength of this, a visit to Nottingham for those of us outside striking distance is to be arranged at speed."
The Daily Telegraph's Matthew Norman finds an impressive chef at odds with his uninspired surroundings at Restaurant One-O-One at the Sheraton Park Tower hotel in Knightsbridge.
Also dining in Knightsbridge, the Metro's Marina O'Loughlin says fairytale surroundings and folksy Russian charm go some way to making up for the incomprehensible and unpalatable menu at Mari Vanna.
Finally, filling in for Fay Maschler at the London Evening Standard, David Sexton says Rebecca Mascarenhas and Phil Howard relaunched Sonny's Kitchen in Barnes is not necessarily for the better.