What the Critics Say - round up of the latest restaurant reviews

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Thumbnail image for Thumbnail image for Thumbnail image for Thumbnail image for What the Critics SayBrasserie Blanc, Raymond Blanc's high street restaurant chain, is designed for the kind of people who find Jamie's Italian a bit new-fangled and leery, according to Marina O'Loughlin.

The Guardian's food critic is disappointed with her meal at the chain's flagship restaurant in Covent Garden, which is branded as a place "where you can relax and enjoy honest French cooking".

However, O'Loughlin says: "I don't know about you, M Blanc, but I find it hard to relax in an environment of deafening noise levels, stressed and overstretched staff, and legions of people processed like so many frozen frites."

Meanwhile the Sunday Times AA Gill says the food at vegetarian restaurant Mildred's in Soho, does little to dispel vegetarianism's holier-than-thouness to compensate for taste and care. 

"This year I am seriously going to try to find a properly good vegetarian restaurant, that isn't just a restaurant without meat and isn't a caff of edible smugness, or just weird," he vows.

Writing in the Independent, John Walsh says there's nothing bad or wrong about French bistro Goode & Wright in Notting Hill, run by Scottish chef Finlay Logan and Parisian waiter Jimmy Tardy.

Filling in for Fay Maschler at the London Evening Standard, Rosamond Urwin says although STK, the UK outpost of the US-based steak restaurant chain, is too expensive and takes itself too seriously, she still leaves full and with a smile on her face, while Metro's Andy Lynes says Coya, London's latest Peruvian restaurant in Mayfair, serves authentic and for the most part delicious food but is let down by the dreary, under-lit basement room.

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